Scary Good: How Hollywood’s Best Costume Designers Bring Horror Films to Life

Scary Good: How Hollywood’s Best Costume Designers Bring Horror Films to Life

Save this story Save Story Save this story Halloween, the spookiest of holidays , is soon upon us. In anticipation of the grand event, we’ve been revisiting some of our favorite scary movies, and we’ve come away thinking about the role costume design has played. Sure, glamorous gowns or historically accurate ensembles may be what first comes to mind when you think of big-screen costumes, but for those who have leaned into more macabre cinematic treats, the end results can be just as thrilling.

And when you think about it, strong costumes are a must for a well-executed horror flick (though a great score and special effects will certainly help, too). For years, costumers have been creating horrifying serial killers—from Ghostface to Michael Myers—and conjuring up original designs that remain seared into our brains (and prompt some of us to look under the bed each night). Take the hockey mask-wearing Jason, or Freddy Krueger in his striped Christmas sweater and knives-for-fingers. Both came to life thanks to a very savvy costume designer.

Obsession, costume designed by Blair James. “The one area where I intentionally leaned into horror was through silhouette and shape,” says James. “For moments when I knew a character would be in darkness or seen only as a silhouette, I gravitated toward oversized proportions and fabrics that could distort the natural shape of the body.”

More recently, spine-chilling movie characters have looked a little different—and way more unexpected. In last year’s Weapons , Aunt Gladys—costumed by Trish Summerville—was eerie thanks to her red wig (complete with mini bangs), oversized specs, and smeared red lipstick. In Obsession , costume designed by Blair James, Nikki wreaks havoc in more normal-looking Gen-Z attire. “I really wanted the characters to look and feel like people you would actually come across in everyday life,” James tells Vogue . “I never approached the costumes with the intention of making anything traditionally ‘scary.’ I wanted the characters to feel as real and authentic as possible, because I believed the more grounded the world felt, the more terrifying the horror would become.”

Weapons, costume designed by Trish Summerville.

In the grand history of horror, however, more traditionally spooky figures have stood out. One of the most iconic on-screen serial killers to date is Scream ’s Ghostface. When the Wes Craven franchise first came out in 1996, costume designer Cynthia Bergstrom was tasked with coming up with the original costume. She drew inspiration from the classic Edvard Munch painting Scream —though at one point, she toyed with the idea of an all-white getup. “We put a friend of mine in the white costume, and he basically looked like a giant Casper the Ghost,” said Bergstrom. The more nondescript black cloak they landed on was the perfect choice—especially for a killer that often lurks in the shadows.

Some of the best horror film fashions have been unexpectedly glamorous, too. In American Psycho —costume designed by Isis Mussenden—Christian Bale plays businessman Patrick Bateman, who is all suave and sleek 80s swagger in his Cerruti suits by day. But by night, he nonchalantly preys on his victims—though you would never expect it, due to his impeccable wardrobe. “He had to look perfect,” Mussenden said earlier this year, on the occasion of the film's 25th anniversary. In the 2019 film Midsommar , a devious Swedish cult also sports vibrant floral headpieces and prairie dresses; you would never guess that they partake in suicide rituals and prey on innocent travelers.

Midsommar, costume designed by Andrea Flesch.

The memorable style of these evil forces is matched by that of the final girls who manage to evade them. Whether it’s the skirt-suited Tippi Hedren in The Birds , or a denim-clad Neve Campbell in Scream , horror film costumers have created memorable characters that you can still spot at Halloween parties year after year. Just as they would approach any other genre, these pros use what a character wears—even those fighting for their lives—as a way to further the plot and evoke emotion.

Take the chunky J.Crew sweater and jeans that Bergstrom dressed Drew Barrymore in for the opening murder sequence in Scream . “I wanted it very basic, something to wear when she’s at home making popcorn,” said Bergstrom. “So, comfortable and casual.” It was not just a cozy-chic look, rather, a strategic outfit that made us instantly relate to her character; You could literally imagine yourself in her shoes, and imagine being harassed by a killer at home, too.

Scream , costume designed by Cynthia Bergstrom.

Scream 6, costume designed by Avery Plewes.

One could argue, then, that these costume designers are among Hollywood’s unsung heroes. They treat gruesome spooks and scares as an art form. It is no secret that major awards ceremonies have long shunned the horror genre (though that seems to be slowly shifting, thanks to films like The Substance and Parasite getting their due). But the costumes in scary movies are worthy of many more nominations. Not only do costumers have to create looks that are realistic and relevant to the plot, but they also have to conjure up ideas that will frighten you to your core.

Fans of this niche of costume design have a lot to look forward to beyond Halloween. New revamps of The Conjuring, Blair Witch , and The Exorcist all arrive in theaters next year. Should you be brave enough to uncover your eyes while you watch them on the big screen, try to zero in on what the frightening ghouls are wearing. You may be surprised to find some fabulous—and perhaps even chic—looks. We will never stop thinking about how elegant Sissy Spacek’s prom dress was in Carrie . You know, the pink slip dress she donned before being soaked in blood and then going all telekinesis on her bully classmates?

Below, more of the best horror costume moments over the years.

Carrie, costume designed by Rosanna Norton.

Sinners, costume designed by Ruth E. Carter.

Bride of Frankenstein , costume designed by Vera West.

The Birds , costume designed by Edith Head.

Frankenstein, costume designed by Kate Hawley.

The Exorcist , costume designed by Joseph Fretwell III.

Halloween, costume designed by Beth Rodgers.

Rosemary's Baby , costume designed by Anthea Sylbert.

Friday the 13th, costume designed by Mari-An Ceo.

Nightmare on Elm Street, costume designed by Dana Lyma.

American Psycho , costume designed by Isis Mussenden.

Resident Evil, costume designed by Richard Bridgland.

Halloween Kills, costume designed by Richard Bridgland.

Hellraiser, costume designed by Joanna Johnston and Jane Wildgoose.

Bride of Chucky , costume designed by Lynne MacKay.

I Still Know What You Did Last Summer, costume designed by Dan Lester.

Black Swan, costume designed by Amy Westcott.

Suspiria, costume designed by Giulia Piersanti.

Nosferatu, costume designed by Linda Muir.

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Source: Lifestyle

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